In the 17th century, the East India Company began importing a type of cotton cloth known as 'calico' from India. This fabric was adorned with vibrant prints and gained significant popularity among English consumers.
However, the success of calico sparked concern among the English woollen industry, leading to an Act of Parliament in 1700 that prohibited imported printed fabrics. This ban gave rise to a new era in calico printing - one that would see revolutionary changes in production methods.
The initial process for calico printing involved bleaching on crofting or bleaching grounds for several months. However, in the mid-1750s, a significant advancement was made when diluted sulphuric acid replaced sour milk for souring the cloth. This greatly reduced bleaching time and improved efficiency.
By the end of the century, calico printing would see its biggest revolution - with the introduction of chlorine or bleaching powder. This innovation enabled mass-production and drastically reduced the time it took to process calico cloth.
The early calicoes were hand-printed with wood blocks, which were later replaced by engraved copper plates in the 1750s. These plates could capture more intricate designs but still required manual operation. However, towards the end of the 18th century, they were superseded by copper cylinders, allowing for faster printing of full lengths of fabric.
One of the major centres for calico printing in England after the ban on imports was Merton Abbey in London. In 1724, a calico factory was founded at Merton Abbey using existing priory structures. In 1752, a second calico works was established within the confines of Merton priory.
Unfortunately we do not know who led this initiative, but records mention a John Cecil as a calico printer there in 1756. Over the years, ownership of the works changed hands, with Robert Maxwell and John Leach taking over the print works. In 1881, William Morris acquired the lease for the premises and established his own company, Morris & Company, which produced various furnishings such as tapestries, fabrics, stained glass, and wallpaper.
Thus, the Calico ban had unintended consequences that led to advancements within the industry cementing its place as an integral part of English textile history.
Explore the fascinating history of the East India Company and its impact on English textile production on a guided walking tour about the East India Company with Hidden Tudor Tours or More Curricular Tours. Visit www.hiddentudortours.co.uk or www.morecurricular.co.uk/tours for more information
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